Haliburton 100 Mile or The Wolf’s Eyelash Sept 4-5, 1999 By John Prohira “The gulf between what we feel we are doing and what others perceive us to be doing will remain the most ultra of all distances, on that no amount of miles or words can finally bridge.” Hart So with that in mind and the following story I’ll still try to describe my recent weekend. I’ll begin with a story/poem by Clarissa Pinkola Estes. This is a tale of a maiden and a wolf. The maiden is warned about risk and taking unwarranted chances, she is told not to go into the woods because it’s dangerous and there lives the wolf. But she feels the need to see for herself and is drawn to the wild of the forest, she must go to learn what she will. She happens upon the wolf caught in a leg trap who implores her for help. At first the maiden is hesitant, “How do I know that you will not eat me the moment I release you?” she asks. “Wrong question” was the snared wolf’s reply. “You must take me at my word that I won’t.” Of course the sensitive and caring maiden takes that chance and unhinges the trap from about the wolf’s leg, steps back and awaits her fate. But this was a wolf from another time and place and instead of eating her he plucked a lash from over his eye and gave it to her saying, “As a reward for your kindness and listening to your heart use this and be wise. From now on you will know who is good and not so good, just look through my eyes and you will see clearly.” She found that by peering through the wolf’s eyelash she could discern the true motives of others, not only could she see the sly and cruel, but the good and worthwhile. She began to grow immense in her heart for she looked at others and weighed them anew through the gift the rescued wolf had given her. She had taken a chance, a noble risk and had gained from the experience. And what, pray tell, has a wolf’s eyelash to do with running? Bear with me if you will. It’s kind of like Arlo Guthrie’s “Alice’s Resaurant” when he tells you one story so he can tell you another. As an end of summer celebration the family and I traveled to Haliburton, Ontario over the long Labor Day weekend. This small town lay about 150 miles northeast of Toronto, east of the Georgian Bay. The further north we got on Friday the smaller the towns became and denser the forest, I had never been this far north before. We rented a cottage at the Silver Eagle Resort which was ½ hour by car south of the Haliburton Forest and the start of a 100 Mile Trail Race I’d entered. The resort consisted of 14 cozy cottages snuggled in a valley of maple and birch, beside clear and peaceful Eagle Lake, the perfect woodland setting and getaway. There are miles of back roads and trails for biking and hiking and a sandy beach for swimming, paddle boating, and a playground for the kids. And no TV! Wonderful! The race is run entirely in the Haliburton Forest and Wild Life Reserve, which is often described as being 51,000 acres of classroom in the old growth forest. The runner is continually treated to splendid views of Ontario’s many lakes containing bass and lake, speckled and rainbow trout. Fog hugged these pristine bodies of water during the hours after dawn. The course is a double out and back format on country road, forest service roads and single track trail in the Forest, privately owned land in Central Ontario dedicated to preserving these wetlands, forest and local wildlife. Within this “classroom” are over 300 km of bike and wilderness trail, 50 lakes, many large ponds and miles of streams and creeks. Wolves? Yes there are wolves. Canis Lupus, although elusive, can still be seen or heard. Two wild packs and a few lone wolves run and hunt in the Haliburton Forest. But more easily seen and heard is the Reserve’s own pack of Gray Wolves enclosed in a 15 acre section of forest. These animals are unsocialized (do not interact directly with man) but not wild and could not survive in the open forest on their own yet they offer exciting educational and research opportunities. Another adventure that the Reserve offers the nature enthusiast is called “A Walk in the Clouds.” This is a four hour round trip tour of the Reserve that includes a half kilometer long walk through the canopy of old growth White Pine trees. The canopy boardwalk is a rope bridge winding through the treetops, some 60 ft above the forest floor, where extraordinary views of the forest and surrounding lakes are seen. I chose to journey first through the forest on foot and to view the flora and fauna from the trail and then go back on the tour with the family next day but we were rained out. Perhaps this is something we can do another year. The Forest Trail Run is billed as being a small town race with a big heart and I’d have to agree with that assessment. The runners, a total of 100 in all had the choice of entering the 50K, 50 or 100 Mile races. 26 men and woman signed on for the 100 Mile challenge. At the pre-race dinner and trail briefing each person in attendance, be it a runner, support crew, spouse or child was asked to stand up and introduce themselves. This added to our sense of community as did the prayer just before dawn at race start and the request from the race director to give the person standing next to you a hug, wishing them well on their long journey. I can’t say enough about the caliber of the race direction and aid personnel, top notch all around. The real difficult part of this race comes at mile 50 when the runner is back at race start, their car and where the decision to go back out must be made. I got in and out of that turn around FAST allowing no time to think about stopping. Some forest wildlife I saw during 28 hours on this beautiful course included ruffled grouse, chipmunks (constant presences), snakes, fox, raccoon, waterfowl and bugs. Lots of flying insects feasting on those who weren’t saturated with DEET. These pests could be viewed as help at times though, for after my bug spray wore or washed off they were only a bother if they could catch me, so as long as I ran or shuffled along all was well, walk and the price paid was bug bites, it was less painful to shuffle along. I did not see the black bear that skirted the aid station that the runners visited at miles 20/30/70/80. But I heard the wolves, were these the wild ones or the ones living on the Reserve? I’m not certain. Their howls can be rather unsettling when heard while alone on deep forest trail in the middle of the night. Soon after hearing those first howls I stopped looking into the woods to investigate sounds coming from off trail. For you see as I peered into the woods with the light of my headlamp wondering what that noise was, eyes would be looking boldly back at me. Now I am a rational man most times and bet that the owners of those glowing eyes reflecting back my light were raccoon and deer, but I was not about to allow my imagination to run wild thinking that there were wolves’ eyes and I was now being stalked. I did not need to wonder if wolves were pondering how this skinny, smelly, two legged creature ambling about might taste, God knows that I would have been easy enough to catch at that point. This was called a relatively gentle course as 100 milers go with a total climb of only 6800 ft. But the climbs are short and steep and often rocky and technical. I found it almost impossible to run the downhills in the dark, even at a slow pace due to the many loose fist size rocks, tree stumps and roots that seemed to be thrown about and growing on the trail. There were 19 aid stations but no medical arrangements or checkpoints, the runners are expected to care for their own medical needs and to be best judge of their mental and physical state, fair enough. There is an overall 30 hours time limit with two intermediate cut-offs of 13 hours for 50 miles and 22 hours for 75 miles. The 50 and 100 mile runners started together at 6AM which I blame for my very fast start. It seemed as if that group just took off and pulled everyone along with them. The course was marked with pink ribbon hanging from trees and we were warned at the briefing to keep our eyes open for abrupt turns. This was a PR course for me, not that I worry about finishing times (something only a back of the pack runner like me could claim). The PR I’m bragging about is how far I ran not how fast. In an attempt to gain greater value for my running dollar I turned my race into a 102 miler. 17 miles into this thing I was running alone and stopped at an unmanned station for a water refill and then ignored the trail markers telling me to turn right onto the trail and instead continued along a scenic dirt road for a mile, enthralled with the beauty of Wolf Lake which was close enough to reach out and touch. It wasn’t until I came up against a locked gate in the Forest and couldn’t travel any further that I realized I’d not seen any pink ribbons for a while and that there were no footprints in the dirt. Oops! A few choice words and back I went retracing my steps. I have been the proud recipient of the much coveted Oven Door “Lost Patrol Award” recognition from my local running group for my navigational abilities, or lack, of and it showed! I covered those first 52 miles in 12 hours and 10 minutes and the second 50 miles in 16+ hours. I was most happy to sit down Sunday morning just before 11 AM. Much of the course is in heavily wooded areas and it got dark much earlier than I expected. I came into the 55 mile station just after dusk without proper lighting and planned on using the pen light I pack for such miscalculations. I figured it would provide ample light until I reached my drop bag and headlamp at 60 miles. All afternoon I been intermittently experiencing a nagging uneasiness, something was missing. Now at mile 55 the helpful aid person noticing my small flashlight offered me a chemical glowstick for use as light. Then it hit me! I hadn’t seen a single glowstick yet on this course. At the other 100 mile races I’ve run these glowing trail markers are placed at 1/8 - ¼ mile intervals helping to keep the runner on course. They are easily seen and can be very reassuring. Now I knew there would be no such help throughout the night. It would be a darker and lonelier run than I’ve ever experienced, by now the runners were spread out over 20 miles. I’d see the leaders as we’d cross paths, they coming in, me out or vice versa and I wondered what it would be like to run that fast for this long, it’s a beautiful thing to see. And I wanted to say to the aid person “please, keep the glow stick and put it in a tree somewhere out there”, but kept these thoughts to myself and continued on. So as an added challenge to running on the primitive trail at night I continually scanned left and right looking for pink ribbons and hoping not to see those yellow eyes following my progress. But I must be honest, there were many of sticks found in trees along the course where they were most needed, just not as many as I’ve been accustomed to. A tougher more self-sufficient bunch these runners north of the border. And maybe I’m just another pampered American, eh? No harm done and perhaps a thing or two learned about running in the dark. The day was unusually hot, eh? A word I learned to love this weekend was “EH?”, which seemed to find it’s way into every other Canadian sentence. Aid stations that were spaced at 5-6 mile intervals. Food and smiles of support were more than ample as were liquids. Yes a hot and humid but very pretty day, 33 degrees C or 90ish in the sun, granted it was cooler when under the trees. Some of the aid stations had campfires burning and it was so very tempting to just sit down and watch the fire burn, smell the smoke and go to sleep. But . . . The chocolate covered coffee beans I had packed worked nicely during those periods at night when sleep called, I find it’s a good idea to treat oneself to little goodies on these long events, the beans or even just a tooth brush and a wash of the hands and face work wonders towards revival. There were no water crossings so my feet remained dry. The trails near lakes in the lower lying lake areas became damp and cooler after dark but I was still comfortable in shorts and singlet and these cool spots I ran into were appreciated. Fifteen runners finished the 100 mile distance and were rewarded Sunday afternoon with brunch and belt buckles commemorating their efforts. I’ve said it many times, I like simple things, simple stories, simple tasks like running ultra distances, one foot in front of another, these things I can understand. The message I take from the story about the maiden and the wolf is that one must take chances and risk failure. I don’t mean being reckless but simply testing oneself, finding out for oneself or reexamining life in a different light, through different eyes or just trying something just because it’s not easy. Attempting something that’s never been tried before or returning to a challenge again just because it was a challenge. And the rewards for taking these chances can be some sort of enlightenment and maybe only for the moment, a different way of viewing the world around me. Risking failure and embracing challenges changes a person. And that is some of what attracts me to the ultramarathon, a simple task. The reward I seek and most often find while ultrarunning aside from some degree of fitness, camaraderie, and celebration is recognizing that which is spiritual. My dictionary gives along with others these definitions of spirit - “the creative and animating power of God, the vital essence or animating force in living organisms, vivacity or energy or ardor” and for spirituality - “something incorporeal”. While running 50 or 100 miles, during the many hours it takes me, I identify with all those definitions. While running alone in the woods the evidence of a Higher Power’s creative force is overwhelming. While running these distances I am continually humbled by the distance, the challenge, by how bad I feel during parts of the race, humbled by the terrain, humbled by recognizing the creative power required to form a mountain or river or make a flower or tree, humbled by the sheer beauty of a glowing sunset or the raw power of a fast moving thunderstorm. I am also in awe of the resurrection of sorts that occurs for me when the sun rises on the second day of a 100 mile race, in awe of how I can go from feeling so bad, from the depths of despair and fatigue to feeling so good and strong and capable. I believe that it is more than physical strength that enables one to complete ultra distances, I believe it is the recognition of the spiritual that helps us in our moments of struggle out there, it’s incorporeal but it’s there. For me the spiritual aspects of the run come from the combination of time spent alone inside my own head, the humility that these distances demand of me and the quiet confidence that I can accomplish what lies ahead. There’s the confidence that I will find the strength and recognize the spiritual. And the spiritual is the reward for, as well as the requirement, for finishing the race. Perhaps even a glimpse into the soul and hopefully taken back into the real world and larger life. So what did the maiden gain by taking a chance and risking failure? She had learned that what they say of a wolf is true, that it is wisest of all, and the wolf in its howling is asking the most important question of all: “woooooooooor aieeeee th’ sooooooooooool? Where is the soul?” “Go out into the woods, go out. If you don’t go out into the woods, nothing will ever happen and your life will never begin.” I joined some others and we went out into the woods. Did I see my soul? I’m not certain, I’ll continue to look. But lessons were presented that could be applied to larger life. It was wonderful to share this experience with my family. I’d not asked them to act as support during the race. It was just too difficult for them to get to these aid stations and watching an ultramarathon is about as exciting as watching grass grow. I knew that they would enjoy the woods more along side Eagle Lake than deep in the buggy forest. Yet at the 60 mile mark, at 9PM I found them waiting at the aid station. Lisa and my two daughters met me there with words and hugs of support. I don’t know that they understood just what I was doing, nor do I sometimes, but they did understand that I’d appreciate their presence. Yes, a great way to end the summer. We went into the woods. Where is the soul? I think I caught glimpses of it, my own and those of others. Yes, I’ll keep looking. I’ll sign off with a couple of quotes. “If someone says, “Hey, I ran 100 miles this week. How far did you run?” Ignore him! What the hell difference does it make? ... The magic is in the man, not the 100 miles.” Bill Bowerman “Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads.” Thoreau Peace, John e-mail