The Bear 100 -- Endurance Trails of Color In 1999, northern Utah trout farmer and winner of the Wasatch Front 100 (WF100), Leland Barker, must have thought that as tough and beautiful as the WF100 course is, it was missing something -- color! The WF100 is run in early September, after the carpet of colorful wildflowers have dried up and before the leaves of the abundant maples and aspens have turned to beautiful shades of red and yellow. Two weeks after the 1999 WF100, Leland introduced The Bear 100 - an equally challenging course in the northern Wasatch Range of southern Idaho at a time when the autumn colors of the area were at their peak. From the first time I heard of The Bear, I've wanted to try it. However, I had taken on the challenge of the WF100 first and was too new to running ultras to try to run The Bear 2 to 3 weeks afterwards. The WF100 course defeated me in 1999, but I came back to finish the next 2 years, first with a finish in Sundance and last year at Midway. I met Leland at the 2001 WF100 pre-race meeting and told him then I had made the decision to skip the Wasatch Front 100 in 2002 and instead run The Bear. I'm very happy I did! Leland, by the way, won the WF100 in 2001 as well. Unlike most 100 mile races, The Bear is run from Friday morning to Saturday instead of from Saturday morning to Sunday. To get to the race, I flew into Salt Lake City on Thursday, where I picked up a rental car to drive approximately 80 miles north of Salt Lake City, through Brigham City and Logan to Leland's Mountain Valley Trout Farm 2 miles west of Smithfield, Utah. I needed to checkin, pick up my race packet, and prepare my drop bags before the 5:00 pm pre-race meeting. The drive was a good prelude to what was to come. Unlike the mountains of northern California which are covered thickly with chaparral, a combination of scrub oaks, chamise, toyon, and coyote brush, plants which are ever green; the mountains of northern Utah and southern Idaho are covered thickly with what I would call, scrub maples, the leaves of which turn to striking shades of red and orange, when the autumn frosts hit. The road from Brigham City to Logan is bordered on both sides by such mountains making it a marvelous ride, well worth the trip in itself! Arriving at the Mountain Valley Trout Farm, I immediately started to recognize old friends and acquaintances. It makes for a very warm welcome, something I've never felt at any of hundreds of shorter events I ran prior to getting into ultras. It is comforting to see others who, like yourself, were willing to travel long distances for the adventure, the challenge, and the love for being out on the trails. Everyone has a lot of respect for each other no matter whether they are at the head, middle, or back of the pack, or aren't able to finish. We couldn't do what we do without all of the support from each other and the many volunteers who make it possible. Whenever you do something that is very difficult you tend to build a strong bond with those who do it with you and running a mountainous 100 miles certainly falls into that category. The setting for the pre-race meeting itself is very interesting. Leland's house sits on a grassy knoll with trees surrounded by many ponds interconnected by a myriad of cement holding pools and channels, that look old enough to have been built by the Romans, all teeming with large trout. At the pre-race meeting, Leland tells us that there will be no weigh in today or during the race, because the only scales he has, for fish, only go up to 30 lbs. We are on our own to look out for gaining or losing too much. The biggest question is: will in rain? The forecast calls for 60% chance on Saturday. We will all cross our fingers that it stays dry. At the end of the briefing, they drew bib- numbers of winners of a generous number of Petzel and Black Diamond LED lights. I was lucky to win a 4-LED Black Diamond headlamp -- what a nice surprise :-) As for drop bags, though you can leave bags at any of the 15 aid stations at The Bear, I simplified things and only created 3. Only one is significant, the one which contains all of my warm clothes for when the sun goes down and it gets cold, which I decide to leave at the Paris Canyon aid station at 50 miles. For switching back in the morning, I simply place my name and number on a plastic bag that I carry in my Camelbak, so that wherever I am when it warms up in the morning, I can strip off the warm layers and drop them in the bag. Reading over the names of the aid stations, you would think that you were about to take a run through Europe: Danish Pass (twice), Paris Canyon (twice), Danish Flat, Copenhagen Basin Rd., Copenhagen Basin, German Dugway, and Finish (;-)! Wanting a good night's sleep, I didn't stick around long after the briefing, but returned to Logan to check into the Best Western, get a good meal, and get to bed. For dinner, I was directed to a nice Italian Restaurant, Gia's, where I was surprised to find Rob Byrne and his crew/pacer Larry England from Oakland, and Jan Gnass of Colorado, who were just finishing. Later, as I was leaving, Wasatch Fred (Fred Reimer), who captained the Paris Canyon aid station, came in. Unfortunately, I didn't sleep well, tossing and turning most of the night, with the longest period of sleep barely being over an hour. I was up at 3:30 am, and showered and out the door by 4:15, for the 45 minute drive up to the start, at the Deer Creek Inn, just south of Preston , Idaho. The race doesn't start until 6:00 am, but because I hadn't been there before I gave myself more than enough time. I ended up arriving first, at 5:00 am and couldn't figure out where to go since everything was dark. Fortunately, Julie Nelson arrived shortly after me and knew where to go. Pleasantly, it wasn't cold at the start and I debated on whether to start with or without wearing my Western States 100 (WS100) tyvek jacket. I ended up starting with it, and though a bit warm at times, kept it on throughout the run, just rolling up the sleeves and opening up the front whenever it got too warm. By 6:00am, the 42 runners were gathered and Leland started us right on time. We followed a dark road for about a mile across a cattle guard and on to the trail head. I felt surprisingly good from the start and started to move up through the runners. Once on the trail, we started to climb and I lead a train of 7 other runners up and past another 6 runners to where the course started to level off and we encountered several small meadows spotted with colorful maples. The trail was difficult to follow through the meadows, as there was no defined trail and we had to find the red or yellow ribbons that had been tied to clumps of grass on the ground. About an hour into the run, I caught up with Errol "Rocket" Jones, a first for me, and I told him he must be slowing down because his worse dream had just caught up to him. I should have never said that, because without looking around, he picked up the pace and I began to slow down. Now, as the daylight enabled us to turn off our lights, I lead the pack into a large meadow, where I lost the trail and the runners behind me fanned out trying to find it. When someone did find it, I was far off course to the right and a half dozen runners moved in front of me :( Shortly after that, I cut my hand climbing through a barbed-wire fence and then while running with Brett Sublett of Colorado and talking about trying not to fall after a couple of close calls tripping over rocks, I had my first and surprisingly only fall of the run. I smacked the ground quick and hard, but fortunately missed all of the rocks and didn't break or cut anything. The course meandered through more meadows and maples until at last we crossed Maple Creek. At this point we T'ed into a woodland road through the maples with trail ribbons going to both the left and right! Remembering our pre-race directions, we followed the road to the right for a half mile to the first aid station (Maple Creek) at 9 miles. I arrived 11th just under 2 hours. After a quick fill, I headed back up the road passing other runners as they were coming in. This is one of the two out-and-backs on the course, giving me a chance to snap some photos of the other runners. At this point the road through the woods transformed into a trail along and back and forth across the creek. It was absolutely beautiful with most of the trees in full autumn colors of red, yellow, and orange along the cascading creek. You get to enjoy this for a couple of miles before starting the long climb of about 2700 ft. up a single-track eroded, rock strewn trail to the first crest. It was a big relief getting over that crest, knowing that the biggest single climb in the course was behind me and then having a relatively easy run downhill to the next aid station at Franklin Basin (16.4 miles). From there, I had an easy run along dirt roads to the 3rd aid station at Danish Pass (20 miles in 5 hrs 7 min.), where I exchanged 2 flasks of HammerGel in my drop bag. From Danish Pass, we had a 19 mile counterclockwise loop to the South and back to Danish Pass. This loop started with a climb on single-track trail to the highest point in the course at 9,119 ft. before dropping 1300 ft. to the Beaver Creek aid station (28 miles). The course from Beaver Creek, through the Fish Haven aid station (32 miles), back to Danish Pass was all on easy to run sandy dirt roads through meadows bordered by many groves of golden aspens. As easy as the running should have been, I had been having trouble eating anything and was running low on energy through this loop, falling back to 26th by the time I reached Danish Pass again (38.4 miles; 10 hrs. 15 min). I have to admit, during this period, I was having a debate with a voice telling me how nice it would be to just drop out at the next aid station, curl up and sleep, but fortunately, there was a much louder voice telling me there was nothing wrong with me, no aches or pains, only lack of energy and reminding me how much I wanted to complete this run. Leaving Danish Pass for the second time, the course returned to single- track trail and climbed up to a trail which followed the ridge line of the mountains, much like the first first half of the Wasatch Front 100 course. On the way up, I got to a point where I had gone for seemingly a very long period without seeing any course ribbons, until finally I reached the decision to backtrack to see if I had missed a turn. On my return, I met up with Scott Sullivan, who convinced me that I hadn't missed a turn and to press on along my original course. Thankfully, this was the correct move as we started to encounter more course ribbons again. Scott and I ran in sight of one another along the ridge line for most of the next 10 miles, with a bit of leap-frogging. At mile 44, we split off to the right of the main trail and dropped down a steep 1/2 mile of switchbacks to the Bloomington Canyon aid station. As we climbed back up to the main trail we passed several other runners just starting down and I was thinking how happy I was to have already done that. It was dark by the time I arrived at the Paris Canyon aid station (50 miles) at 8:06 pm and it was fortunate that I carried both my 3-LED waste belt and my Princeton halogen flashlight. For me, the LED light works fine when I'm walking up hills or running along a dirt road, but when I'm running single-track, especially down hills, I need the added illumination the halogen light provides to see well enough not to fall. At Paris Canyon, it was good to see a familiar face, Fred Reimer. I spent 20 minutes here, eating noodle soup and adding a layer of warm clothing from my drop bag to prepare for a chilly night. Fortunately, it didn't seem like it was going to get terribly cold so I left most of my warmer options in my bag. At Paris Canyon, I also caught up with Scott Sullivan again, who was joined there by his crew and pacer for the rest of the run, Elena, reversing their roles from the Cascade Crest Classic 100 (CCC100), a month earlier. Once back on the trail, I was thinking optimistically, that if I could do the last half as fast as the first half, I would finish under 29 hours :-) This didn't seem unreasonable at the time considering my hardest climb was behind me and most of the last 10 miles was down hill. The course to the next aid station, Dry Basin at 66 miles, was mostly on single-track through forest with a lot of up and down, but nothing significant. It was dark and I focused on my footing and staying on course. Jim and Louise Wholey, who had also run the CCC100 with me a month earlier, caught up to me just as I arrived at Dry Basin. We got to exchange wishes of support at each of the next 2 aid stations, before I started picking up steam and moved forward. Dry Basin turned out to be a misnomer, as the course out of Dry Basin follows a dirt road that is flooded in many places, forcing me to try to skirt the edge without slipping in the mud. On one such passing, an overhanging branch knocked my hat off and into the muddy water. Fortunately, it landed in the water top-down and I was able to grab and shake it before it absorbed much water. It did remain quite mud- encrusted for the rest of the run, as I learned at the end when I took it off. Also in this stretch, another branch ripped the left shoulder out of my WS100 jacket, which I was able to cinch up with some of the spare safety pins I always carry on one of my Camelbak straps, but it was definitely a throwaway at the end. After almost 2 miles of the dirt road, the course took an acute turn up to the left and for a short climb to Green Pass followed by a long gentle downhill of about 4 miles along a single track trail through meadows with lots of boulders. Finally, I reached a quiet paved road, which I followed to the left for 1 1/2 miles over a ridge and down to the Danish Flat aid station (65 miles; 2:15 am). I tried unsuccessfully to eat something here before moving on :( It was also at this point that I unknowingly passed Errol Jones, who had stopped here for an all too long nap! My own lack of sleep got to me twice during the night, around 10:30 pm and again at 2:30 am, when I would feel very drowsy and start stumbling along. Fortunately, each time I was able to counter it within a few minutes with a NoDoz tablet. I caught up with Julie Nelson, of Layton, Utah at Danish Flat, where she took a break to warm up by the fire. Before moving on ahead of me she was able to give me a good description of what laid ahead for me, as she had trained over this section of the course. She told me to follow the dirt road out of Danish Flat a little over 2 miles to Liberty Creek and that after crossing the creek, I would have to endure several steep climbs and descents on single track trail. She was right on with her description and they were steep! After a few miles of this, I reached a paved road, which I followed to the left for 1/2 mile past the Emigration Campground to another trail, which was to lead us into the campground and to the next aid station. It was here that I got lost and wasted 17 minutes going around the campground looking for the aid station. I wasn't alone, as I encountered several other runners, including Scott and Elena, who were just as frustrated looking for the aid station. Finally, we all decided to follow a dirt road, which seemed counter to our written instructions, but which did lead us to the aid station -- whew! Knowing that I wouldn't be able to eat and upset about wasting time, I went right through this aid station passing many runners who had stopped to eat and get warm around the camp fire. From there, I continued to go south on Copenhagen Basin Road 4 miles, with a climb of 900 ft., to the Copenhagen Basin aid station (78 miles; 7:25 am). It started to get light as I approached the aid station. I refilled my CamelBak bladder and headed back out through the meadow of the basin in the early morning light. It was very pleasant and I was happy:-) The next 4 miles back to the Dry Basin aid station (82 miles; 8:51 am) was very easy over a combination of dirt jeep roads and trails through meadows and open woodland with no significant hills. At Dry Basin, I pulled out my portable drop bag with my name and number on it, in which I placed my long pants and warm top, which were too much now that the sun was starting to come out. I was also able to deposit my flashlights, LED belt, extra batteries, etc., as I wouldn't be needing them any more :) I also grabbed some food, which I was able to get down as I left the aid station, but not before making some horrific sounds, as I'm unfortunately getting to be known for, which I was told latter startled some of the ladies helping out at the station. Now, traveling lighter, and with some food in my stomach, I started to pick up my pace and run rather well. The next 8 miles to Paris Canyon was the same single-track cow trail I had run the previous night, but now in daylight and in the opposite direction, it was all new to me. Within a few miles, I caught up to and passed Scott and Elena and was able to run hard and fast on the down hills making good time. It was along this stretch that I encountered the only steers I saw along the course, which ran along in front of me for a few miles before figuring out how to step off the trail and let me pass. I'm sure their rancher wasn't too pleased with me that day as they probably lost more weight than they gained! Wasatch Fred greeted me again at Paris Canyon (90 miles; 8:58 am), where I made a quick water stop before heading down the easiest part of the course, a 3 mile sandy dirt road, all down hill to the German Dugway aid station, just before the hardest part of the course, Leland's Edge (aka Revenge)! While running hard down this stretch, my eye suddenly caught sight of a small snake stretched out in the soft sandy dirt. I stopped and on closer examination, I immediately recognized it as a rubber boa, one of only 2 boa species that live north of Mexico. It was a medium brown and only the size of a standard pencil. When I picked it up to move it safely off to the side, it coiled up around my finger. Moving on downhill, I next encountered a group of 6 geriatric ATV riders, which I had encountered along the road to Danish Pass 50 miles ago! They recognized me from behind their bandanas and again stopped to let the dust settle as I passed, just as they had thoughtfully done before. I passed right through German Dugway (93 miles; 12:10 pm), without refilling, which was almost a mistake as the next stretch was far harder than I imagined and I almost ran out of water! In my rush to get on to the finish, I missed the turn onto Leland's Ledge as soon as I left the aid station as I started down a dirt road. Fortunately, one of the aid station volunteers immediately notified me of my error and showed me the non-intuitous way right into the brush! Leland's Ledge is hard to describe, it has to be experienced to be appreciated, but I will try. Apparently, Leland, in laying out the course encountered the problem of having to get the runners across a section of steep canyon without any trails to a cow trail, which would lead the runners on to the finish. His solution was to have the runners climb 1 1/2 miles through all of the scrub maples and rocks midway around the canyon walls. The course is so irregular that he had to tie ribbons every couple of feet to lead the runners over, under, around, and behind whatever obstacles they encountered. There is no way to run any of this; you just keep moving as fast as you can without sliding down the steep slopes. It seemed like it would never end and took me about 75 minutes to reach the heavily eroded, rock strewn cow path that I was able to run, more like dance, for the next 4 miles before finally reaching the road. Just as I started onto Leland's Ledge, I was caught and passed by James Miller and his pacer, who amazed me with how fast they were able to move though it. I was very pleased with how fast I covered this section, but in only 7 miles, James did it 45 minutes faster! At the road, I caught and passed Elizabeth Bouquet and her pacer and then ran non-stop down the last mile along the road we started on to the finish at Deer Creek Inn. I finished 22 of 42 starters, in a time of 32 hours 35 minutes and 28 seconds:-) This placed me 37th on the all-time finishers list, at least until next year. Conveniently, my car was parked right at the finish line and I was able to shower and change at a restroom, outside the restaurant nearby. Then I returned to the finish line to cheer in the remaining runners. I was totally stunned to learn that Rocket Jones hadn't finished yet, as I knew he was much faster than me and I never recalled passing him. He was one of only 4 who was going for his 4th consecutive finish and I knew he wanted to continue this streak. It was a real heartbreak to all of us as the 35 hour time limit passed and then Errol appeared coming down the road shortly after missing the cutoff by less than 2 minutes, due to napping too long :( In our race packets we all received gift certificates for $20 for dinner at the Deer Creek Inn for our post race dinner and awards ceremony. For this, we gathered around 6 PM out on the back porch of the restaurant, ordered from a super menu including trout, supposedly from Leland's farm, along with many other excellent selections. While we ate, Leland presented the awards. Hal Koerner III, of Colorado, continued not only his streak of finishing all 4 Bear 100 runs, but of winning all 4, resetting his record each time! With a very heavy race schedule, he wasn't expected to even make it this year, but pleasantly surprised everyone when he showed up at the pre-race meeting. His new record time of 21:00:17, was the only time under 24 hours and thus the sole winner of the coveted Wolverine Club buckle. Mary Workman was the first place woman with a time of 29:40:50 and also maintained her 4 time finishing streak as did Tim Seminoff. Leland has promised a special award for anyone who finishes 5 consecutive Bear 100s, something to look forward to next year. Leland awarded Grizzly Bear Club buckles to the 13 runners who finished over 24 hours and under 30 hours and Black Bear Club buckles to the 18 finishers between 30 and 35 hours. All 3 of the buckles are very nice looking -- my favorites of all of the running buckles I have seen! In addition to a buckle, all finishers within the 35 hour limit, were also awarded a 12"x9" etched brass plaque on a blue and black background with the run logo and course profile along with the runner's name, place, and time, all mounted on a polished hardwood base. In conclusion, The Bear 100, thanks to all of the careful and thoughtful planning, volunteers, and dedication is a first class event! Many Thanks, Chuck Subject: The Bear 100 -- Endurance Trail of Color From: "Wilson, Chuck" Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 20:02:29 –0700